...@ aln688 What do you have the mirror-smooth so CPU get?
Excuse me for writing English, some of the words I do not know in German...
After spending many
days of sanding and learning the correct techniques, my advice can be summed in like this --- use 220 grit, 600 and then 1000 grit sandpaper,
very lightly wet. I say wet as the copper powder goes into the air if you sand dry which is not good for inhalation. When you setup the sandpaper, do so on a completely flat surface, marble, glass, etc., use a spirit level to make sure you are sanding on a horizontally flat surface.
When attaching the sandpaper to your flat surface, do
NOT attach the sandpaper with masking tape at the top and bottom (
I used 3M Painter's masking tape, blue, as it resists water better), only attach masking tape to the top of the sandpaper. Lightly wet the paper, then hold the item you are sanding at its base (or lowest point), start at the top of the sandpaper and firmly pull the item downwards very slowly. When you reach the bottom of the sandpaper, lift up, carefully place back at the top, pull back down, etc. Repeat this 30 times, then dab the sandpaper with lightly wet kitchen paper/roll to eliminate excess metal build-up on the sandpaper. Only dab the sandpaper five or six times then replace the paper with a fresh sheet.
Why do I say
not to attach the sandpaper top and bottom with tape? The reason is, as I discovered, the paper can ripple in the middle when you are pulling the item downwards to sand it, and it creates rounded corners on the heatsink or CPU and they are very difficult to remove. After you've gone through 220, 600 and then 1000, you can optionally buff the item with metal polish to shine it, although a shine is not necessary, only for the item to be flat. I used "Wenol", a German metal polish which works extremely well. After shining, use Electrical cleaner with zero residue (or something similar) to clean off any residue from the metal polish.
I hope this helps. Oh, about buying a D0 CPU, it's random whether you get one or not. Some computer shops will specifically let you buy a D0, some will sell you their old C0 stock to deplete it.
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Very nice build! I am using the same case and motherboard as you. What make and model of heatsink do you use? My Northbridge temperature is kept under control by installing a Noctua U6 heatsink on top of the stock Asus heatsink. It seems to work fine. I am now using a Prolimatech Megahalems and running at 4.0 Ghz (20 x 200), 100 passes of LinX, maximum temperature of 74 C.
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Prolimatech Megahalems on the Rampage II Gene, out in the open. Once I sleeve the wires for the case fans and find suitable bolts, I'll install the board in the case.
