[Sammelthread] Der offizielle MO-RA3 Sammelthread

[GrimmReaperNL]

Hi Everybody, Hope you don't mind me posting in english. I was hoping if someone could tell me how easy the mo-ra3 is to take apart. It has shrouds all round the radiator and I was wondering if those are easy to take off. I'm thinking about routing some wires through it.
Thank you.

 

[deveth0]

you can also route most cables through the fan cover.
There is also a mora lite without the shrouts, probably you can have a look at that?

 

[GrimmReaperNL]

you can also route most cables through the fan cover.
There is also a mora lite without the shrouts, probably you can have a look at that?

I was thinking about routing the cables front/back through the shroud that can hold the res/pump. I've seen the LT version, but would still like to use the shrouds on the end product.

 

[Simaryp]

I think @deveth0 was refering to the core version when he wrote lite. That is a nearly naked version.
The LT version differs from the pro version only in one point which is the lacking of mounting material for the second side.
But since you want fans on both sides you would need the pro version anyway.
If you want to have fan covers have a look at it again. You can apparently hide and mount a lot of stuff within them, like fan controller etc.

 

[GrimmReaperNL]

I think [USER = 142508] @ deveth0 [/ USER] was refering to the core version when he wrote lite. That is a nearly naked version.
The LT version differs from the pro version only in one point which is the lacking of mounting material for the second side.
But since you want fans on both sides you would need the pro version anyway.
If you want to have fan covers have a look at it again. You can apparently hide and mount a lot of stuff within them, like fan controller etc.

Yeah, that's my bad. I ment to say core. LT is the one with only fan brackets for one side.

I'm thinking about putting a 3d printed box above the reservoir housing a controller and splitters etc. But would like to run wiring through the mo-ra shroud. if the shroud piece on the in / output side can be removed, that would be great. I can drill some holes in it to run the wires. Then with the fan covers on, there would be no wires visible at all.
So I would like to know if the shrouds are easy to disassemble/reassemble.

 

[Simaryp]

Maybe have a look at the core version. You can get an impression on how the pro version looks behind the housing. Maybe you can ask watercool for drawings?

Maybe you could consider too increase the dimensions of your box so it covers the cable opening of the fan bracket?

 

[GrimmReaperNL]

Maybe have a look at the core version. You can get an impression on how the pro version looks behind the housing. Maybe you can ask watercool for drawings?

Maybe you could consider too increase the dimensions of your box so it covers the cable opening of the fan bracket?

Yeah, I looked at the core version and it looks like there's plenty of space for wiring. I can't quite figure out how the shrouds are mounted around the core though.
Indeed, increasing the size of the box to cover holed from the fan covers would work too. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Frozburn]

Hey guys. I'm sorry for posting in English, I don't know if it's against the rules. Just have a quick question since you seem to be hardcore-mora3 over here:

Has anyone tested the following: MO-RA3 420 ~ x9 Noctua A-14 (or Arctic P14) vs x4 200mm Noctua A-20. I assume the 140mm ones give a bit better cooling, but the question is, how much? I'm thinking about the P14 because the Noctuas are incredibly overpriced. I'm aware that the P14 has an issue at 1000 RPM or so where it has a weird humming noise but that isn't a problem for me because I'll always run them at max speed. I've drilled a hole into the wall so the MO-RA3 is in the other room. Couldn't care less about noise. I can get the P14s PWM here for 6 euro a piece. Very cheap, but not sure how much better they are vs x4 200mm noctuas.

For those thinking "if you don't care about noise, why would you be interested in the 200mm fans" - it's because of less cabling. Cabling aside, if the temperature difference isn't massive (let's say, only 1-3c?) then I'd go for the 200mm, but if it's more than that, then that would be too much of a difference to ignore and I'd have to go with the 140mm at that point. Appreciate any help with this.

 

[Midium]

For those thinking "if you don't care about noise, why would you be interested in the 200mm fans" - it's because of less cabling. Cabling aside, if the temperature difference isn't massive (let's say, only 1-3c?) then I'd go for the 200mm, but if it's more than that, then that would be too much of a difference to ignore and I'd have to go with the 140mm at that point. Appreciate any help with this.

Use a Splitty9 and you would not need more cabling

 

[Tundor]

9x140mm will be more efficient overall, as it covers more area of the Mo-Ra 420 and probably also will apply a higher static pressure. I did not run a 9x140 vs 4x200mm test by myself however I cannot imagine the Air / Water delta being anywhere near the 3° you mentioned. To give you some numbers of my setup:

Mo-Ra 420 4x200mm AF20 fans usually running at 450RPM while gaming (essentially silent, as my computer is right next to my desk)
I9 9900K
3080FTW3 at 105% PT (~400W)
Air / Water Delta in game between 6-8°C

I also checked the delta while having the fans run on full rpm (~800). This did not change too much, delta was improved by max 0.6°C.
I cannot image to achieve any improvements of more than 1-1.5°C by using the 9x140mm setup as opposed to the Noctua 200mm.
That being said, since 9xP14 is only half the price of a 4xNoctua setup and you apparently have no noise constraints due to the Mo-Ra being installed in another room I would probably save the money and go for the P14 setup. Cabling is annoying as you said but if the Mo-RA is hidden somewhere else anyway, who cares

*edit*
As @Midium suggested, a splitty is a good solution for your problem. However my understanding is that you are probably more hesitant because of the cable cluttering in the Mo-Ra itself?

 

[Techlogi]

@Frozburn Cableing should not be an issue at all, just buy the PST version and dasychain them.

 

[Frozburn]

Use a splitty9 and you would not need more cabling

Sadly, the shipping costs like 35 euros to get that (for a 10 euro item) from shop.aquacomputer.de. What really surprised about that. The mo-ra was 14 euro for shipping. I can't find a splitty9 in my country.

9x140mm will be more efficient overall, as it covers more area of the Mo-Ra 420 and probably also will apply a higher static pressure. I did not run a 9x140 vs 4x200mm test by myself however I cannot imagine the Air / Water delta being anywhere near the 3 ° you mentioned. To give you some numbers of my setup:

Mo-Ra 420 4x200mm AF20 fans usually running at 450RPM while gaming (essentially silent, as my computer is right next to my desk)
I9 9900K
3080FTW3 at 105% PT (~ 400W)
Air / Water Delta in game between 6-8 ° C

I also checked the delta while having the fans run on full rpm (~ 800). This did not change too much, delta was improved by max 0.6 ° C.
I cannot image to achieve any improvements of more than 1-1.5 ° C by using the 9x140mm setup as opposed to the Noctua 200mm.
That being said, since 9xP14 is only half the price of a 4xNoctua setup and you apparently have no noise constraints due to the Mo-Ra being installed in another room I would probably save the money and go for the P14 setup. Cabling is annoying as you said but if the Mo-RA is hidden somewhere else anyway, who cares

* edit *
As [USER = 314775] @Midium [/ USER] suggested, a splitty is a good solution for your problem. However my understanding is that you are probably more hesitant because of the cable cluttering in the Mo-Ra itself?

Not clue about water temp, was mostly talking about the temps you'd get in a benchmark under stress or a heavy game like Battlefield on 1080p low 360hz using the cpu big time. Was wondering if the P14s would give a few degrees difference there vs the slow 200mm, considering that the P14 have much higher static pressure. I guess at the end of the day the most important thing is a cold room

[USER = 328728] @Frozburn [/ USER] Cableing should not be an issue at all, just buy the PST version and the chain them.

The only other Arctic P14 fan that I can find here is a permanent 1700 RPM version (which costs 4.5 euro, even cheaper) I might just get those hah: d from 6.30 euro to 4.5 euro these fans are just so cheap it's insane.

 

[Techlogi]

@Frozburn Thats the correct version:

P14 PWM PST | 140 mm PWM Fan with Cable Splitter | ARCTIC

ACFAN00125A | P14 PWM PST is a pressure-optimised 140 mm fan | PWM Sharing Technology allows a synchornized fan setup | Fast processing and delivery | ARCTIC Store

www.arctic.de

 

[mister_no]

Hi,
haben die nf-a20 noch immer das Problem mit der hohen Anlaufspannung? Würde gerne 4 davon an meine AS XT Ultra anschließen.

 

[Chaund]

Dafür musst du aufs Produktionsdatum gucken, was immer außen am Rahmen zu finden ist. Noctua hatte die Produktion irgendwann Ende 2018 (iirc war es Oktober) umgestellt. Alle Lüfter, die danach produziert wurden, haben das Problem nicht mehr.

 

[Frozburn]

@Frozburn Thats the correct version:

P14 PWM PST | 140 mm PWM Fan with Cable Splitter | ARCTIC

ACFAN00125A | P14 PWM PST is a pressure-optimised 140 mm fan | PWM Sharing Technology allows a synchornized fan setup | Fast processing and delivery | ARCTIC Store

www.arctic.de

Can only find this one for 6 euro here (not from scan, but just to show the model) https://www.scan.co.uk/products/140...0rpm-728cfm-fluid-dynamic-bearing-black-4-pin

and the one that is constantly running at 1700 RPM.

 

[Techlogi]

@Frozburn You are from UK?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/arctic-cooling-p14-pwm-pst-black-fan-140mm-fg-04k-ar.html

 

[Frozburn]

@Frozburn You are from UK?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/arctic-cooling-p14-pwm-pst-black-fan-140mm-fg-04k-ar.html

Nope, Bulgaria. I just found the same fan, but it's in white (everywhere I checked). There's 1 site that has them in a pack of 5 but very overpriced.

 

[Techlogi]

Maybe just order from german Shop?
e.g. https://shop.watercool.de/navi.php?a=2111&lang=eng
Or pack of 5: https://www.aquatuning.de/air-cooli...-pwm-pst-case-fan-140x140x25mm-black-5er-pack

 

[Frozburn]

Maybe just order from german Shop?
eg https://shop.watercool.de/navi.php?a=2111&lang=eng
Or pack of 5: https://www.aquatuning.de/air-cooli...-pwm-pst-case-fan-140x140x25mm-black-5er-pack

Oh nice, can get them from the watercool site then, thanks. I'm leaning towards the P14 instead of the A20 200mm, think they're just gonna give me better results. I do like the looks of the A20s tho. Currently I'm using x6 gentle typhoons AP-15 from like 2011 or so, really good fans. Too bad I can't use the on the mora unless I go for the 360 version.

 

[Tundor]

Not clue about water temp, was mostly talking about the temps you'd get in a benchmark under stress or a heavy game like Battlefield on 1080p low 360hz using the cpu big time. Was wondering if the P14s would give a few degrees difference there vs the slow 200mm, considering that the P14 have much higher static pressure. I guess at the end of the day the most important thing is a cold room

Since the Watertemps will eventually influence the temps for the CPU / GPU you could expect a slight increase of course. But as you correctly mentioned the air temp in the room itself is the best lever.

I'm leaning towards the P14

Go for it If I had my Mo-Ra in a different room I would for sure pick the budget version. And those fans are actually good, as you can see in various reviews.

 

[deveth0]

Is the covered area really larger using 140mm vs 200mm? I mean you'll only have 4 hubs instead of 9 so imho 200mm should be better and emit less noise...

nevermind, did the math:

Noctua A20 with 200mm fan and 64mm hub covers an area of 28200mm2, a 140mm fan with 40mm hub (estimated from pix) covers 14100mm2.
So 9 140mm cover around 127000mm2, 4 A20 only 112800mm2 (around 88%).

 

[Techlogi]

I think the A20 will perform (a bit) better at same noise level than ne P14, but in my opintion not worth a price difference of 100€, especially if the Mora is located in a different room.

 

[Binnendijkii]

Mich hat jetzt auch der Mo-Ra Virus gepackt und bei der Planung wollte ich eigentlich die klassische Heakiller Tube mit Halterung Variante nehmen. Leider ist die überall ausverkauft, ich hab aber noch eine Barrowch Pumpe/Res combo für mein kommendes V3000 build. Das würde ich gerne in der Zwischenzeit nehmen in Verbindung mit dem MO-RA3 Adapter:

Glaubte ihr geht sich das mit den Löchern aus? Ich hab auf Aquatuning keine Maße dazu gefunden:

 

[deveth0]

Grob über den daumen gepeilt (komme leider nicht besser dran) haben die Löcher 32mm und 51mm Abstand beim original.

 

[Techlogi]

Dazu ist die Halterung ~6,5cm breit, falls du selber bohren willst.

 

[de89]

Mich hat jetzt auch der Mo-Ra Virus gepackt und bei der Planung wollte ich eigentlich die klassische Heakiller Tube mit Halterung Variante nehmen. Leider ist die überall ausverkauft, ich hab aber noch eine Barrowch Pumpe/Res combo für mein kommendes V3000 build. Das würde ich gerne in der Zwischenzeit nehmen in Verbindung mit dem MO-RA3 Adapter:

Anhang anzeigen 627194

Glaubte ihr geht sich das mit den Löchern aus? Ich hab auf Aquatuning keine Maße dazu gefunden:

Anhang anzeigen 627195

Ist doch im Watercool Shop verfügbar !?

 

[Simaryp]

Ist doch lieferbar ?

Heatkiller Tube Ausgleichsbehälter MO-RA3 Montageoption, 19,95 €

Der Watercool MO-RA3 Adapter für den Heatkiller Tube Ausgleichsbehälter ist die ideale Option für die Montage an unserem externen MO-RA3 Radiator.

shop.watercool.de

 

[Binnendijkii]

Ich wollte eigentlich alles bei Aquatuning bestellen (Versand nach AT) und ich meinte das hier (ist sonst nirgends Lieferbar):

 

[Simaryp]

Ist bei Watercool doch auch lieferbar.